I don't know when Chef's became celebrities (I think Emril is the pioneer), but since then shows like Top Chef and Iron Chef have given everyone a glimpse of how much of an art cooking is. In NY, 2 Chefs have started to build a food empire based on their celebrity and the culinary chops.
In the first of a multi part series we are going to go head to head in comparing 2 chef's restaurants (I am still looking for a name and would love suggestions).
This week we have Tom Colicchio vs Mario Batali!
We have been to a few of these Chef's places before... Colocchio's CraftSteak in Vegas and Batali's Pizzaria Mozza in LA. In our minds those were both amazing culinary and dining experiences and left very happy, full, and excited to try their next restaurant.
So first up is Batali's La Pizza & Pasta, situated in the middle of Batali's culinary Mecca, Eataly. It's hard to separate the dining experience from the rest of Eataly so it will play a part in how I judge the final.
So first off Eataly was busy as usual... It was around a 15 minute wait for out seat at one of their many dining experiences inside. Christie and I shared a shaved asparagus salad which was really good. In addition they had some amazing fresh bread accompanied by some evoo. But that was sadly the apex of the dining experience. Even though I was smiling here, the pizza really wasn't all that special. It was a traditional "wet" pizza with house made sausage and basil. Christie got a pesto lasagna which was underwhelming as well. But instead of leaving on a sour note, we (Christie) wanted to do some shopping.
A look at some of the mini stores within a store...
Overall the first dining experience we had was subpar (there will be going to many more of the other "restaurants" within the store). But the overall energy and selection of food at Eataly makes us want to go back for more. There is even a new beer garden opening up in the upcoming weeks which will take this place to the next level. It's really hard to explain the overall environment of Eataly, other than to say think of the Ferry Building in SF, and if everything restaurants and food vendors owned by one company, and all of the "stalls" and restaurants flowed together very seamlessly that there was no clear break between focuses.
Yes, it's hard to compare Eataly to anything because its so different, but I am going to try.
As a fan of Top Chef, Tom has set the bar high in terms of expectations of any place he puts his name behind. One of his newer places if called Riverpark. Situated on the bank of the East River, riverpark has a great setting in an area of NYC that is still being developed. It's on the ground floor of a new condo complex that is anchoring a new biotech and innovation center of the city.
We got to the restaurant a little early, so we grabbed a drink at the bar. I got a Rodenbach beer and Christie a cocktail. Both delicious it was a good start to the night. We split an oxtail cappelletti appetizer which was good but not memorable. For our main course we split the diver scallops and flat iron steak. If you didn't know, anytime there are seared scallops on the menu I am a sucker for them. It's my absolute favorite. But Tom's didn't measure up to what I expected. There was no "sear", but a general browning... So it lacked a little of the crust that packs flavor and texture. The steak was solid and larger portions than I would have expected. Overall a solid meal it didn't wow me (which I was hoping/expecting). I would easily rank craftsteak in Vegas higher than riverpark, but that's not what I am comparing.
Who wins? It was tough comparing two drastically different experiences, but at the end of the day Eataly wins because we are going to keep going back. Riverpark is crossed off the list and never visited again. Yes, is it hard to compete against all of Eataly? But sometimes an 8th seed has to play a 1 seed, and there could be upsets (My GSW Warriors moment). Both of these chef's have additional entries that we are checking out in the coming months so there will be a rematch coming to a blog near you.